How to Make a Collage Style T-Shirt Quilt
By my count, I have made 23 t-shirt quilts over the last seven years. That's more than three a year. Each year, interest in custom-made, unique, personal quilted items only grows and I see a lot of questions and debates about how to best make a t-shirt quilt. My process has been revised over the years and I am happy to now share my tips!
2. Once I have the stack of shirts, I cut the fronts from the backs. When a shirt has text or pictures on both sides, I count that as two shirts. I also always look for small emblems or other details that might be on the sleeves. Recently I even included a pocket from a kid's shirt on my dinosaur themed toddler quilt! Here it is with markers in the pocket.
First, a couple of comments. I prefer collage style t-shirt quilts. This means that I cut each shirt to a different size and then piece them together like a collage. Other people prefer keeping all shirts the same size and even sometimes including frames or sashes around each piece. I think those quilts are beautiful too, but I personally find the collage style to be most reflective of the t-shirt vibe. So, this advice is particularly about collage quilts, but some advice might also be applicable to other designs.
Also, t-shirts are stretchy. You probably already know that. What you might not know (or accept) is that it stretches as you cut, sew, and quilt it. I do a few things to minimize how much this distorts the shape, but ultimately, I also have to accept that it won't be perfect. I actually really like that about t-shirt quilts.
With proper warning, here are my tips:
With proper warning, here are my tips:
1. Gather the relevant t-shirts. I aim for between 25-30 for a full or queen sized quilt. You can make a decent couch throw or stadium blanket (Alabama Stadium Blanket available now!) with about 15. I don't usually do anything with fewer than 12 shirts. I wash everything together before getting started. This ensures that any shrinkage happens before I cut.
2. Once I have the stack of shirts, I cut the fronts from the backs. When a shirt has text or pictures on both sides, I count that as two shirts. I also always look for small emblems or other details that might be on the sleeves. Recently I even included a pocket from a kid's shirt on my dinosaur themed toddler quilt! Here it is with markers in the pocket.
3. I then sort all of the shirts into color piles. So, the Alabama quilt was organized into red, white, and grey shirts. I try to make sure the colors are balanced, so sorting them this way helps me to see what I have available.
4. In the process of color coding, I also select a few that would make good fillers. These are colors and textures that will give life to the small pieces with no text. In this example, I used multiple striped t-shirts and flannel pj pants as fillers. In other quilts, I pick a color family (usually blues and greys, tbh) that complements the other shirts. I cut the filler shirts into four pieces: front, back, and two arms. The arms are often big enough for filler pieces and keeping those allows me to keep the fronts and backs as big as possible.
5. Within each color stack, I organize the pieces into small and large text/design. Note: I don't cut anything at this point. I am simply trying to get a sense of how big the designs are on each piece. I create new sub-stacks of size within color.
6. So, now the shirts are all organized and it's time to start designing. I like to use masking tape on the floor to mark out the finished size of the quilt. After I mark the outside border, I create halfway markings vertically and horizontally. This should look like a large rectangle with four quadrants.
7. I then assign shirts to each quadrant. I start with one color and divide the large pieces even across the quadrants. I then do the same with the next color, and the next, and the next, you get the idea. I assign the small pieces after all of the big pieces are assigned. There are usually not as many of these, so I assign them, but know they are movable.
8. I work quadrant by quadrant at this point. I measure each shirt and fold it to the shape I think works best for the quilt. I place all the assigned shirts in a configuration that seems to work and then I fill in the empty spaces with filler fabrics. Once I am happy with the layout of the first quadrant, I draw it on graph paper. Here it gets tricky, but stay with me.
9. Most graph paper doesn't have enough blocks for each block to represent an inch, so I have each block represent two inches. What this means is that if a shirt logo is 12" x 8" (like the one here), I would map it on the graph paper as 12" x 8" (six boxes by 4 boxes), BUT when I cut it, I have to include seam allowances. So, after I draw on each box, I label it as 13" x 9" to give myself an extra inch, which translates to half an inch seam allowance on each side. I map the shirts out for all four quadrants -- all before cutting anything.
10. Now it's time to take pictures. It is hard to see a collage quilt with any objectivity if you just look at it with your eyes. I take pictures from different angles. Some I intentionally take with poor focus so that I can get the color story. Some I take from above. Some I take upside down. Sometimes I take a bunch of pictures and then go to bed. Looking at the pictures the next day gives you even more distance.
11. Once I've had some time/distance, I look at it and make sure the colors and textures are broken up enough. Any that stand out as not fitting or creating too much of a color block, I move them around. As I finalize, I correct the graph paper mapping. If I move things a lot, I usually have to redraw at least some quadrants. That's okay, this before-cutting prep is essential for easy piecing.
12. NOW, after I have finalized the designed and checked the measurements at least three times, I finally start cutting. I work quadrant by quadrant for this part as well. I use a rotary cutter, 24" ruler, and a good cutting mat to square up each piece. It is critical to make sure your pieces are precise. Each should have an extra inch for seam allowances.
13. Once all of the pieces are cut, I make my plan for stitching. You can see in the notes above that I drew in heavier lines to break each quadrant down into even smaller pieces. I take it slowly, piece by piece and again measure it all as I go. As I said above, I use half inch seam allowances on each side. This is larger than other types of quilts and I hear others say they like 3/8 or even 1/4. The problem with that for t-shirt quilts is that the shirt edges roll after they've been cut. Leaving a full half inch makes it easier to stitch the pieces together without fighting the roll or stretching the shirts as you pull them through the machine.
14. A couple of other notes about stitching: I don't use stabilizers in my t-shirt quilts. Many people say you have to use them, but I don't like how stiff they make the shirts and it can make it harder to quilt, especially for hand-quilters. Also, I make the stitch longer than usual and test the tension on t-shirt scraps. The goal is to get the stitch small enough to hold it all, but not so small as to stretch the shirts. Try to move the pieces through with as little handling as possible. Any interference will stretch and distort. This sounds complicated, but once you do a few pieces, you'll get the hang of it.
15. I piece each quadrant separately, then stitch them to one another. I don't iron the seams, but I will try to open them with my fingers as I go. The iron can melt some of the printing and steam can make the shirts even more susceptible to stretching.
16. Once the top is pieced, I prepare the batting and backing. Pretty much any batting is fine. I like flannel for the backing, but cotton is fine too. Basting the quilt sandwich is essential for t-shirt quilts. I use a spray adhesive for this. I've tried hand basting and safety pins, but I don't like them as much as the spray adhesive. It keeps all parts of the shirts exactly where they should be. But, you do have to be very careful that you have no wrinkles in the top. Do this part slowly.
17. I mostly quilt by hand, for all types of quilts. I draw on the lines with chalk and set it up on a quilting stand. I use a lot of cross hatches and curved lines, with about 4" between lines.This works well for the t-shirts. Anything closer together will stretch them further. Anything further apart lets the batting move too much. The same plan can be used for machine quilting.
18. I add binding by cutting a two and half inch strip of fabric and then ironing it in half. I sew the binding to the back and then flip over to secure on the front side. There are lots of great online tutorials for bindings, if you need them.
19. I wash all completed t-shirt quilts on cold, gentle agitation. I dry with low/no heat.
20. Enjoy the fruits of your cobbled together t-shirt labor!
4. In the process of color coding, I also select a few that would make good fillers. These are colors and textures that will give life to the small pieces with no text. In this example, I used multiple striped t-shirts and flannel pj pants as fillers. In other quilts, I pick a color family (usually blues and greys, tbh) that complements the other shirts. I cut the filler shirts into four pieces: front, back, and two arms. The arms are often big enough for filler pieces and keeping those allows me to keep the fronts and backs as big as possible.5. Within each color stack, I organize the pieces into small and large text/design. Note: I don't cut anything at this point. I am simply trying to get a sense of how big the designs are on each piece. I create new sub-stacks of size within color.
6. So, now the shirts are all organized and it's time to start designing. I like to use masking tape on the floor to mark out the finished size of the quilt. After I mark the outside border, I create halfway markings vertically and horizontally. This should look like a large rectangle with four quadrants.
7. I then assign shirts to each quadrant. I start with one color and divide the large pieces even across the quadrants. I then do the same with the next color, and the next, and the next, you get the idea. I assign the small pieces after all of the big pieces are assigned. There are usually not as many of these, so I assign them, but know they are movable.
8. I work quadrant by quadrant at this point. I measure each shirt and fold it to the shape I think works best for the quilt. I place all the assigned shirts in a configuration that seems to work and then I fill in the empty spaces with filler fabrics. Once I am happy with the layout of the first quadrant, I draw it on graph paper. Here it gets tricky, but stay with me.
9. Most graph paper doesn't have enough blocks for each block to represent an inch, so I have each block represent two inches. What this means is that if a shirt logo is 12" x 8" (like the one here), I would map it on the graph paper as 12" x 8" (six boxes by 4 boxes), BUT when I cut it, I have to include seam allowances. So, after I draw on each box, I label it as 13" x 9" to give myself an extra inch, which translates to half an inch seam allowance on each side. I map the shirts out for all four quadrants -- all before cutting anything.
10. Now it's time to take pictures. It is hard to see a collage quilt with any objectivity if you just look at it with your eyes. I take pictures from different angles. Some I intentionally take with poor focus so that I can get the color story. Some I take from above. Some I take upside down. Sometimes I take a bunch of pictures and then go to bed. Looking at the pictures the next day gives you even more distance.
12. NOW, after I have finalized the designed and checked the measurements at least three times, I finally start cutting. I work quadrant by quadrant for this part as well. I use a rotary cutter, 24" ruler, and a good cutting mat to square up each piece. It is critical to make sure your pieces are precise. Each should have an extra inch for seam allowances.
13. Once all of the pieces are cut, I make my plan for stitching. You can see in the notes above that I drew in heavier lines to break each quadrant down into even smaller pieces. I take it slowly, piece by piece and again measure it all as I go. As I said above, I use half inch seam allowances on each side. This is larger than other types of quilts and I hear others say they like 3/8 or even 1/4. The problem with that for t-shirt quilts is that the shirt edges roll after they've been cut. Leaving a full half inch makes it easier to stitch the pieces together without fighting the roll or stretching the shirts as you pull them through the machine.
14. A couple of other notes about stitching: I don't use stabilizers in my t-shirt quilts. Many people say you have to use them, but I don't like how stiff they make the shirts and it can make it harder to quilt, especially for hand-quilters. Also, I make the stitch longer than usual and test the tension on t-shirt scraps. The goal is to get the stitch small enough to hold it all, but not so small as to stretch the shirts. Try to move the pieces through with as little handling as possible. Any interference will stretch and distort. This sounds complicated, but once you do a few pieces, you'll get the hang of it.
15. I piece each quadrant separately, then stitch them to one another. I don't iron the seams, but I will try to open them with my fingers as I go. The iron can melt some of the printing and steam can make the shirts even more susceptible to stretching.
16. Once the top is pieced, I prepare the batting and backing. Pretty much any batting is fine. I like flannel for the backing, but cotton is fine too. Basting the quilt sandwich is essential for t-shirt quilts. I use a spray adhesive for this. I've tried hand basting and safety pins, but I don't like them as much as the spray adhesive. It keeps all parts of the shirts exactly where they should be. But, you do have to be very careful that you have no wrinkles in the top. Do this part slowly.
17. I mostly quilt by hand, for all types of quilts. I draw on the lines with chalk and set it up on a quilting stand. I use a lot of cross hatches and curved lines, with about 4" between lines.This works well for the t-shirts. Anything closer together will stretch them further. Anything further apart lets the batting move too much. The same plan can be used for machine quilting.
18. I add binding by cutting a two and half inch strip of fabric and then ironing it in half. I sew the binding to the back and then flip over to secure on the front side. There are lots of great online tutorials for bindings, if you need them.
19. I wash all completed t-shirt quilts on cold, gentle agitation. I dry with low/no heat.
20. Enjoy the fruits of your cobbled together t-shirt labor!
Comments
Post a Comment